The crochet ripple stitch is a popular stitch for many reasons. It is enjoyable and easy to make and has many variations. It’s also a great stitch to use multiple colors or color-changing yarns. If you have crocheted a ripple stitch before, you will most likely recognize some of the stitch sequence in this tutorial, but I have added a row of mesh made with chain spaces on every third row.

This is crochet mesh ripple stitch is a great stitch for blankets, scarves, and wraps, and I have included the pattern multiple so you can make any size desired. I really like the texture and look of this mesh ripple stitch and hope you enjoy crocheting it!

Materials:

• Yarn: Any yarn desired; for this tutorial I used Loops & Threads Facets yarn in Frost and worsted weight scraps.
• Hook: Any hook desired; I used an I hook (5.5 mm).
• Locking stitch marker, scissors, yarn needle

Stitches and Abbreviations:

• This pattern is written using US crochet terms.
• chain (ch)
• double crochet (dc)
• double crochet 2 together (dc2tog): Yarn over hook, insert into next st, and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over hook, insert into next indicated st, and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining 3 loops on hook. [See also photo tutorials below.]
• stitch (st)
• skip (sk)

Notes:

• Pattern Multiple: Chain any multiple of 21 plus 20 chains.
• ch 2 turning chain does NOT count as a stitch.
• The stitch is reversible, so there are no Right Side or Wrong Side designations.
• For row 1, I worked into the back “bumps” of the starting chain, which gives the edge a cleaner look. [See pictures below.]

Photo Tutorials for dc2tog:

You will be working three types of dc2tog for this crochet mesh ripple stitch. The stitch is worked exactly the same, but where you place your hook will be different. This all sounds complicated, but it is so much easier than it sounds! The first is just a standard dc2tog that you will work in the first 2 stitches and last 2 stitches of Row 2 and every row after (explained in the pattern).

The next dc2tog will be just for Row 1, where you will again work a standard dc2tog, but you will skip 3 chains in between. See the photo tutorial below.

1. Yarn over hook, insert hook into back bump of next chain, pull up a loop. (3 loops on hook)
2. Yarn over hook, and draw through 2 loops on the hook. (2 loops on hook)
3. SKIP 3 chains, yarn over hook, insert hook into back bump of next chain, pull up a loop. (4 loops on hook) The red bracket shows the 3 skipped chains.
4. Yarn over hook, and draw through 2 loops on the hook. (3 loops on hook)
5. Yarn over hook, and draw through all 3 loops on the hook. (1 loop on hook)

The third type of dc2tog will be the decrease that forms the “valleys” of the ripple stitch. This dc2tog will be worked in Row 2 and every row after. For this stitch, you will be skipping the dc2tog from the previous row. See the photo tutorial below.

1. The needle shows the stitch you will skip for this dc2tog. This stitch is the dc2tog from the previous row.
2. Yarn over hook, insert hook into next dc, draw up a loop, yarn over hook, and draw through 2 loops on hook. (2 loops on hook)
3. SKIP the dc2tog from the previous row. Yarn over hook, insert hook into next dc, draw up a loop, yarn over hook, and draw through 2 loops on hook. (3 loops on hook)
4. Yarn over hook, and draw through all 3 loops on the hook. (1 loop on hook)

Pattern:

Chain any multiple of 21 plus 20 stitches. For the swatch shown in the pictures, I chained 62.

Row 1 (set-up row): Work in the back bumps of the chain across the row.

dc1 in the third chain from the hook. *dc1 in the next 8 chains, ch3, dc1 in the next 8 ch, [begin dc2tog in the next ch, sk 3 ch, finish dc2tog in next ch]*, repeat from *…* to the last 17 ch in the row. *dc1 in the next 8 ch, ch3, dc1 in the next 9 ch, turn.

Row 2 (solid row): ch2 (does not count as st), dc2tog in first 2 dc. *dc1 in next 8 st, ending with 1dc in ch-3 space of previous row, ch3, dc1 in same ch space and next 7 dc, [begin dc2tog in next dc, sk 1 st (dc2tog from previous row), finish dc2tog in next dc]*, repeat from *…* to the last 18 st in the row. dc1 in next 8 st, ending with 1dc in ch space of previous row, ch3, dc1 in same ch space and next 7 dc, dc2tog in last 2 dc, turn.

Row 3 (mesh row): ch2 (does not count as st), dc2tog in first 2 dc. *[ch1, sk1, dc1 in next st] 4 times, ending with 1 dc in ch-3 space of previous row, ch3, dc1 in same ch space, [ch1, sk1, dc1 in next st] 3 times, ch1, [begin dc2tog in next dc, sk 1 st (dc2tog from previous row), finish dc2tog in next dc]*, repeat from *…* to the last 18 st in the row. [ch1, sk1, dc1 in next st] 4 times, ending with 1 dc in ch-3 space of previous row, ch3, dc1 in same ch space, [ch1, sk1, dc1 in next st] 3 times, ch1, dc2tog in last 2 st, turn.

Row 4 (solid row): In this row, you will be working in the double crochets and ch-1 spaces of the previous row.

ch2 (does not count as st), dc2tog in first 2 st (first dc and ch-1 space). *dc1 in next 8 st, ending with 1dc in ch-3 space of previous row, ch3, dc1 in same ch space and next 7 st, [begin dc2tog in next st (ch-1 space), sk 1 st (dc2tog from previous row), finish dc2tog in next st (ch-1 space)]*, repeat from *…* to the last 18 st in the row. dc1 in next 8 st, ending with 1dc in ch space of previous row, ch3, dc1 in same ch space and next 7 st, dc2tog in last 2 st (last ch-1 space and dc), turn.

Repeat Rows 2-4 as many times as desired. Repeat Row 2 once more. For my swatch, I repeated Rows 2-4 four more times and then Row 2 again for a total of 17 rows.

As with all of my patterns, you are more than welcome to sell any finished item made with your personal copy of the pattern. Attribution to the pattern designer or a link to my website or Etsy is appreciated. 🙂 Please do not sell the pattern itself. Thank you.

Thank you so much for viewing my website! Happy Crocheting, Lena